Voltage Regulator...

I replaced my brushes and still have the same condition as before.  ~12.x v at idle (no lights) and a drop when I flip on lights.  Meanwhile, at rev I get plenty of volts often seeing high 13's and low 14's.

or reduce the current draw

I don't remember if the R5/RD voltage regulators are points type, or electronic. One of the things I do in my ignition system business is alternators and regulators.

An example, the difference between GM regulators and how they work the alternator.

In the early point type regulators, points and servos actuated the rotor to become an electro-magnet, turning it on and off, on and off, on and off, to produce voltage. What we see is lower voltage/amperage production and lower engine rpms, and fluctuating voltage to the electrical system as the regulator turns the rotor on and off, on and off, to charge, starting charge, then stopping it altogether, so the system doesn't over charge.

The newer GM alternators have internal regulators, electronic, no servos, no points. These alternators handle charging differently than earlier servo/poin systems do. These regulators turn the rotor/electro-magnet ON and hold it ON, for the entire time the engine is running. Charging is constant, not on/off, on/off. This way has proven to be a LOT better for both voltage/amperage production, and, alternator life. When voltage is at its upper level, the electronic regulator drops excess charge voltage to ground, holding the charge voltagte at one high level, from idle at maximum rpms.

For early GM remote regulator alternators, there are remote regulators available that change the early systems to the later always on systems, and, those regulators are inexpensive. Ford has the same type electroinc regulators work the same as the GM ones do. A part number for one of the GM remote electronic regulators is Wells, VR715, auto Zone stores carry them, under 15 bucks. Stock R/RD diode sets will still work jsut fine with the electronic, always on regulators/charging system.

There are a few people that have used Ford and GM automotive electronic remote regulators and diode sets on all sorts of regulator energized charging systems (as the ones with brushes are), with great success and results.

Originally posted by h2rtuner When voltage is at its upper level, the electronic regulator drops excess charge voltage to ground, holding the charge voltagte at one high level, from idle at maximum rpms.

On most modern bikes that's what the regulator is doing, but they had fixed magnets in the rotor and are at max output all the time because there is no way to control the strength of the rotor's magnetism. On RD's and alternators that have rotors with windings and brushes that energize them (cars) the electronic voltage regulator adjusts the voltage to the rotor so that the output of the stator will be adjusted. If the battery voltage is low than the regulator will raise the voltage to the rotor so the stator voltage will increase. The voltage to the rotor changes to keep the alternator output at the proper voltage as the rpm and load changes due to the lights, etc.